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We were
lucky. Three of us, John, Eric and I,
went to Kauai in February 93 on a work
trip. All expenses paid. It sounded
great and it was great. Three weeks on
the garden island, but only a few days
without working to see and experience
all that Kauai has to offer. We didn’t
know much about Kauai when we arrived,
and I had never even heard about the Na
Pali coast, so on our first day off we
went kayaking in the morning, and
mountain biking in the afternoon. Some
time during our stay we heard about the
ancient Na Pali trail, and decided that
we had to see it for ourselves.
We
started asking around and the more
people that we talked to the more we
began to wonder if it was even possible
to hike all the way to the beach and
back the same day. Most people said we
were crazy, and some went so far to say
that if we even tried we would probably
die. This only made us more determined
to at least would give it our best shot.
At
last our day off work came, a Sunday
morning. We had worked 75 hours in the
previous six days so we didn’t really
get an early start. However by 8:00 am
we were finishing breakfast in a nice
café near the trailhead. The waitress
gave us yet another warning about the
dangers of Na Pali, and the dangerous
surf at Kalalau Beach.
We
weren’t totally ignorant of the stresses
of a big hike on a hot tropical day, so
we took about a gallon and a half of
water each planning to stash some of it
along the rail for the return trip. We
also figured we would have to go rather
fast if we wanted to get out alive.
We hit
the trail about 8:30 walking fast with a
strong sense of urgency and a certain
amount of trepidation. The trail starts
up immediately and after climbing three
or four hundred feet it goes back down.
This pattern was repeated over and over.
Our fast walk soon turned into jogging
on the downhills and the mile markers
started going past. A few miles in we
passed some guys who were pig hunting.
They didn’t seem too friendly so we
pushed on. Sometimes the trail would be
in dense jungle other times it would
open up with heartstopping views over
cliff edges and down to the waves
hundreds of feet below. Usually at those
spots the trail would be narrow
resembling a goat trail more than a
hiking trail. We were blessed with a
wonderful day, clear skies with a
blustery wind off the amazingly blue
ocean. However the sun was intense and
we were glad to have lots of water.
After about one and half-hours, we were
near the six-mile mark where we stashed
part of our water for the return trip.
We were making good time and by now knew
that we would be able to make it in
reasonable time. Ridge after ridge,
through drainage after drainage, we were
soon on the last descent to Kalalau
Beach.
What
a beautiful place! A lone beach bordered
by impassable cliffs that look more like
a vertical jungle than any cliff I had
ever seen. Water falls and runnels
draining the upper reaches of the island
cascaded down everywhere. Being winter
on the north shore, the waves were huge.
The waitress at the café was right, the
ocean here dominates everything. We were
afraid to even get in the water because
the rip tide was running west faster
than we could run. If you were to get in
the water past thigh level you would
likely get knocked off your feet and
swept west past the end of the beach. If
that happened you would have to swim all
the way around the island before you
could find a place to get out of the
water. Resting in the shade eating some
lunch and napping to the sound of
endless waves crashing over the reefs,
we felt very privileged to be there.
We spent
an hour and a half hanging out on the
beach before starting the long hike
back. Walking along, I was thinking
about the ancient peoples that created
and used this trail. It makes one wonder
who had it better, the people who walked
this trail out of necessity, or us who
were hurrying back so that we could
return to work the next day? By 4:30 we
were back at the car, it had been a very
rewarding day. The lesson learned is to
not let others fears and limitations
stop you from searching to find your
own.
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